[Hualien] Deep in Morisaka and Chef by the Sea Port - 2/2

[ 摩里沙卡充滿紅檜香味的回憶]

There is a place named Morisaka. It\'s a place deep in the tall mountains and perfumed by fresh and living pine trees. We went from deep in the mountains to the bustling sea port in the afternoon where chefs from restaurants flock to returning fishing boats for... (continue reading...)

這次意外的發現了林田山林業文化園區. 林田山又名森坂 (Morisaka),早期為日本人在台灣開採原生紅檜和扁柏的林場. 現在是個讓人會想再去拜訪的山中小鎮. 在回家的路上, 本來單純個 "什麼都不准買的"漁港吃海鮮之旅, 卻巧遇宜蘭知名餐廳的主廚 (有客來...

...訪宜蘭, 如有機會我們大多會帶他們去那餐廳. 因為它真的有它的特色. 所用的食材也為當天主廚到海港精選的.

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... the fresh and pretty-looking seafood materials.



 Went to the Lichuan Fish Farm (立川漁場) for the special kind of clams here. Normally you can pay a small fee and go dig clams in this water. But we wouldn\'t really do that here because it was FREEZING out there.



立川漁場附近, 以前可以到涼亭去,現在好像不行了。
View around the Li-chuan Fish Farm.
 

這有個小型的 "蜆" (clam) 博物館。 其實我們主要來這是要喝薑絲蛤蠣清湯.
There\'s a mini "clam" museum. But really.. we were there for the clam soup.
 

用九層塔炒的傳統味與清淡的蛤蠣清湯。
Traditional dishes with clam.


路邊的野花。
We stopped in front a field of wild flowers. 
 

Fields of yellow/orange flowers. There were fields of yellow flowers last time we drove on the same highway.
上次我們來時經過的是一片片黃色的花海. 這次是比較小片的橘色花海.
 

 
路邊的景.
By the highway.


這邊有許多當地人擺的小攤位, 賣著當地的特產. 當然也少不了台灣檜木. 檜木原木的味道實在太神奇了, 一聞就好像一下子置身於千年的森林裡. 賣我們這些木塊的是一位很和藹也很可愛的老婆婆... 想到他們這些還守在這的老一代, 子孫應該一年也只能看到幾次吧. ちっと寂しいですね... 婆婆溫暖的笑容和開朗. 也溫暖了我們的心.


There are lots of small stands selling local things in the park. Many of them still live here. We got a few pieces of these blocks of Hinoki wood. The smell is strong and pleasant that you\'d feel you\'re all the sudden brought to a forest just by smelling it. That\'s how cool it is.
 

 來到了林田山林業文化園區. 一個也叫做 “摩里沙卡" (Morisaka; 日文翻成中文:森坂) 的世外桃源.
這黑白這片中的地方其實是這林業小鎮的一處在一片大火中被燒成廢墟的舊日式房子.

The Lintianshan Forestry Culture Park. This place is named "Lintianshan" and also known as "Morisaka" during the Japanese occupation era. The black and white photo in the photo above are houses in this small town built in the early 1900s to accommodate workers in the prosperous forestry business. These houses (a small portion of the town) were burnt down in a fire.




機關車庫. 以前用來運輸物資&木材的機關車.
The old trains that were used to carry goods and wood in and out of the area.


林業文物展示館裡一些和當時林業蓬勃時和生活與工作的種種.
The museum inside the park exhibits everyday things used by the people living in the good old times here.




Things you\'d find in a old house in the living room or dining room.
其實這一景我是被後面牆上的 “重感情"標語給吸引的.. 那字本身看起來都超有人情味的. 果然標題要下得好才會吸引人駐足.
 

 

我們有職業病,看到和我們平時工作有關的 "多看" 一眼, 看看是哪家做出來的古董。
We\'re a bit workaholic. Can\'t help it but wonder which company made this antique. & So it happened to be Puritan Bennet. 
 

在台灣的小學時期才看得到的小踏板風琴。我們好歹也是那樣一路走過來的。
The kind of small pedal piano-like thing (but it works more like a accordian with the foot pedals?!) that we saw when we were in elementary school. Each classroom would have  one of this to be used during music class.

 

兩種建築材質, 也許代表的是兩個時代。 
Two kinds of building materials. Two different times.
 

 Walking into the old alleys where the old dorm buildings built for workers in the forestry industry still stand now. Some of these old houses are still occupied.. but mainly of elderly who don\'t want to leave their home town.
走進日式宿舍區. 這邊的一些舊房子仍有許多人在住. 大部分都是捨不得離開這裡的老人. 
 

這舊日式社區是個隨便拍照都可以看起來很唯美的地方.  
This place is ideal for photo-shootings because it\'ll look pretty almost from all angles.
 

 

Small abandoned alley.
很有感覺的點.

 

零亂 - 但訴說著過去.
Every piece is a story teller. Every place has its story.

 

不經意看到的小貓.. 不過就是有點胖就是了。
A cute fat kitty. xD



Stairs covered by mosses.
佈滿了青苔的石階.
 

這邊附近曾發生火災,木製的房子都燒光了。只剩燒不掉的房子地基. 這邊幾間是火災紀念館. 但門卻是封起來的 & 裡面像廢墟...
The place where I took this photo was a site that was burnt down by a fire some decades ago. There\'s a memorial hall but it is deserted, locked and looks more like ruins.

 

 

外面還貼著賣土產 menu 的老房子. 不過看起來人去樓空.
There is a sign with red writings telling people what they sell here (largely local snacks and eats in general).. but as you can see, there\'s nothing here. Not sure if this place just never managed to survive that or it hasn\'t been reorganized and refurnished yet.
 

小學司令台上的記憶.  
Recalling memories on (or rather standing facing it 98% of the time) the command post(?) of our Taiwan elementary school years. It\'s a daily thing.. the whole school has to march to the plaza in front of the command post, sing the national anthem, raise the national flag (& sing the song that goes with it) and listen to the principles and important people on the board of the school lecture. We loved it when it rained because that meanat we didn\'t need to stand under the blazing sun (couldn\'t really change our standing position - it was rather military-like). This is true of all schools in Taiwan, even up to this day.


做早操~!
Morning exercise~! That was what we did as well. Forgot about it. xP
 

舊&很久沒有修的鐵路. 這個也有牌子特別寫不能走. 這次我們就真的乖乖的站得遠遠的 (之前平溪的 -> 在這 ).. 畢竟很可能會斷掉的舊鐵軌比較危險. :p

A old rail track. But we didn\'t dare to walk on it this time because this thing hasn\'t been maintained/repaired. 


這邊新建的中山堂旁的一些自然木作品 .
Wood trunks in its natural form on display here in this area of the park.
 

這是翻修過的原課長宿舍. 這是雙併的日據時代建築.  
日據時代是個充滿了許多衝擊的時代, 但也是因為台灣有日據時代這一段, 造就了現在的台灣.

This used to be the dorm of the managers of the forestry business. It was built in the style typical of Japanese houses built in the Japanese occupation era. If you have followed my Taiwan posts, you would\'ve probably realized a lot of the older prosperous towns have lots of remains of the Japanese era.

Undeniably, Taiwan would not be where it is today without that period of history of colonization and exploitation of Taiwan natural resources (for export) by the Japanese. With the newest technologies passed over from Japan at the time for rapid investigation into the territories, location of valuable natural resources and construction of railways and the most efficient transportation network, this colonization by the Japanese, in the end, brought prosperity and built the foundation for technological advancement for the next generations. 

現在這房子已經被翻修成一個氣氛很棒的咖啡廳. 在這邊可以放鬆心情, 坐在窗口看一個下午的書和品茶.
This place has been renovated and converted into a nice cozy cafe. It\'s the kind of place where you can sit by the window and read for the whole afternoon. 


林田山社區咖啡館 Lintianshan Cafe
A: 花蓮縣鳳林鎮森榮里林森路99巷46號 (in Hualien County)
T: 03-8752378
 

本來要深入太魯閣的... 但才想到那天前這邊才來個近 7 級的大地震, 後來還是算了. 怕山谷裡的石頭可能會有點鬆動. 所以我們只到了長春池.

We were planning to go to Taroko. But then considering that there was just one large earthquake the day before, perhaps it\'d be wise not to go in because there could be rocks falling off here and there from the tall steep mountains.
 

這邊就是產石頭. 而且是很硬也很漂亮的花崗岩.
This place is famous for its beautiful granite.
 

Stopping for a scenic spot on the Suhua Highway. See the black strip around the "waist" of the tall mountains? That\'s the Suhua Highway. As I said, it just winds its way around the mountains. This highway usually gets shut down due to fallen rocks (huge ones) or collapsed  lanes when there\'s a major typhoon.

回去的路. 這邊的海的顏色很美. 沿著陡峭的懸崖跑的就是遇到颱風就會有路面坍方或落石的蘇花公路. 我們本來還在怕地震會不會也把一些大石震下來, 擋住回家的路?! 不過還好沒事~! 

本來要到蘇澳漁港吃海鮮的.. 沒想到車子開著開著居然看到宜蘭饗宴餐廳的程主廚!! 饗宴不記得去了多少次. 不過每次都有 pleasant surprise. 第一次去饗宴的 Post: Shen Yen Interactive Teppanyaki

Were going to the Suao Fisherman\'s Wharf for lunch but we ended up at the Fish Market at its rush hour and we saw the main chef of the Teppanyaki restaurant. It\'s almost like our second kitchen in I-Lan. :p  So we all just hopped off and went after him. The first post I wrote about the restaurant: Shen Yen Interactive Teppanyaki
 

[  跟著大廚的腳步就對了! ]  Follow the Chef !!
 

Shipyard and the sea birds on fishing boats.
海港旁的船廠和跟著漁船進港的海鳥.
 

Busy shoppers during the rush hour by the sea port when fishing boats return with lots of goodies.
下午的這個時候是漁船回來的時間.. 所以知道的人就會在這時衝出來搶一等魚貨.
 

Picking the good ones!
 

讓你挑!
Choose what you want!
 

Lots of pretty and fresh looking fish that can be found on the east coast of Taiwan.
很多很漂亮的魚.

 

When a fishing boat comes in, it just pours its stock of fish out for people to choose. The usually go out really fast. Some of them don\'t even get to get splashed out like this because a buyer has already made a deal with the fisherman before the boat came in.

許多漁獲 到港時會被"潑" 一地讓買主選. 但有些特好的貨在漁船還沒靠港舊早已談好了. 所以也就不會這樣灑一地的讓人選. 
 

圓花鰹  (又名炸彈魚) 在秋末是最肥美的.
A kind of bonito that is often found along the eastern coast of Taiwan. This kind of fish is nicknamed the "Bomb Fish" because of its body shape.

 

A book that I came across some time ago in Eslite and decided to finally start reading it. It has quite a lot of good information on the kinds of fish to see in fish markets in Taiwan.

前幾個月在誠品看到的一本關於台灣漁與海鮮的書,  覺得還滿有意思的因為之前根本就不知道什麼魚叫什麼.. 也不知道它是進口還是附近海域的. 最近終於把它打開來好好翻一翻了~!

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Related Posts:
1. [Hualien] The Earthquake Holiday - 1/2
2. [Hualien] Deep in Morasaki and Chef by the Sea Port - 2/2.


More Photos on MY FLICKR:

 

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My Past Related Posts:

1. Around FOrmosa - Farglory Hotel: http://blog.yam.com/perladipace/article/14010126 
2. Around Formosa - Clam Farm : http://blog.yam.com/perladipace/article/14010202
3. Around Formosa - Taroko Valley: http://blog.yam.com/perladipace/article/14009319
4. Around Formosa:  http://blog.yam.com/perladipace/article/25960410