[ Orchid Island ] A Difficult Route to the Other Worldly

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[ 一身污泥換來的渺渺寧靜 ] 

On the Orchid Island, there is a Heaven Lake (Large Tienchi). The hiking route to the high mountain lake is not an easy one. In fact, it is quite primitive and steep in some areas. With my D90 camera and runners, it was definitely another challenge. But I must say, it was a...(continue reading...)


這天的早上我們終於要上大天池了, 原本以為是一般登山步道, 沒想到步道只有前面一小段, 後面的都是與泥路, 抓樹根和拉繩索為伍的登山路線. 這時又實際感受到 D90 相機的重量和跑步鞋帶給的隨時會往前溜的刺激感. 不過到了最後的天池和後來下山去的青青草原, 都...
.... 讓人十分的印象深刻. 山中的霧氣讓火山口的湖和周邊奇形怪狀的樹木,看起來有很原始的感覺.

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... truly remarkable experience. The lake, originally the vent hole of a volcano, was covered by fog when we reached it.

 

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早上又到東清的美亞每早餐店報到. 岸邊有許多還在晒的飛魚.
Morning breakfast at the Meiyami Breakfast place again. These are flying fish being sun/wind dried.
 

 

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早上的雲還真的有點詭異, 下面較深灰的一條是海平面.
The morning cloud looked a bit strange. The darker grey line at the bottom of the photo is the sea horizon.
 

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每個部落都有自己晒飛魚的方法.
Every village has its own way of drying their flying fish.
 

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東清的海岸可以遠眺幾天前看到的軍艦岩, 這邊看日出是很棒的, 不過這幾天沒什麼日出.
From the coast of the Dongqing village, we could see the Battleship Rock that we saw a few days ago. This place is supposedly good for watching sunrise. But the weather wasn\'t really good for the few days we were there so we didn\'t see it.
 

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往大天池的方向經過路邊的另一個較有名的岩石, 這個看起來有點像龍吧? 
On our way to the Large Heaven Lake, we passed by another famous rock along the coast. This one looks like a dragon?
 

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蘭嶼的核廢料廠. 從 1982 年建立, 它現在儲存了9 萬桶來自台灣核電的核廢料. 但在島民 10  多年的抗爭下,  這些核廢料可能會在近幾年遷移.
We also passed by the nuclear waste disposal site. This place used to be very controversial because the island people were deceived into believing that this plant was built to be a cannery. It wasn\'t until some islander went to Taiwan and found out that nuclear waste from the nuclear power plants on the Taiwan island was being shipped in large quantities to this storage site that there were huge political demonstrations and lobbying to stop the transport of such nuclear waste to the island. From the outside, the sign only says it\'s a storage site. If you didn\'t look closely, you\'d probably not notice the hints to the danger of handling nuclear waste on the building itself.
 

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我們到核廢料儲存廠借廁所, 不過如果你要參觀這核廢料廠也是 ok 的, 好像有導覽. 不過裡面好像不能照相.
We borrowed the public toilet from the nuclear plant. It was kinda ghetto.
You could visit the nuclear plant and I think there\'s a guided tour or something but you\'re not allowed to take photos in there.  

 

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核廢料廠外還有這個很特別的柱子, 它上面有許多不同大小的孔, 當強風吹過時, 它就會發出不同的聲音, 有點像個管風的樂器.
Outside of the nuclear waste disposal site, there is this very special pole on by the beach. There are several holes on it so when the sea wind blows through it, you could hear different sounds coming out from it like a wind instrument.
 

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接著我們到了一個港口, 這個從外面看起來不怎麼起眼的港口, 可是當時台電專門用來運核廢料的港口. 在核廢料被禁止運到這後, 現在則成了島民停靠小船和釣魚的地方.
Then we arrived at a small wharf. This just looks like any other wharf if you don\'t know its history. This used to be the place where ships carrying nuclear waste from Taiwan would land.  People were not allowed to do anything around this wharf. 
 

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這邊還有特殊標明這港是台電用來運核廢料, 一般人禁止進出!
There\'s the special sign from Taipower, the operator of nuclear plants, that informs people that this harbour is owned by the company to land and transport nuclear wastes. People are not allowed to come near it.
 

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但現在當然誰都可以進出了.
But of course, that\'s no longer the case. This place is now a place for people to fish.

 

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有人釣到大魚但是拉不上來.
Someone got a big fish but couldn\'t pull it out.
 

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海港旁的 "肉粽" (防波塊).
The concrete structures to break the power of waves by the sea walls.
 

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今天的海算有點藍了!
The ocean around the Orchid Island should be this colour when the weather is good.

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終於到了前往天池的登山路口, 現在只有前面這段有架這樣的木頭步道.
Finally arrived at the entry point for the hiking route to the Heaven Lake. The easy walking part (wooden stairs) is only available at the starting point. The rest of the route is nothing like this.
 

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往上走一點到的涼亭可以看到小蘭嶼 (島) 和一大片的青青草原.
View of the green grass field and the small Orchid Island off the coast from a small pavilion on the trail.
 

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山邊的自然生態.
More wild life along the way.
 

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之後的路有點艱難, 所以相機幾乎都是收起來, 只有拍到這幾張稍微可以喘氣的地方. 
The route after was quite challenging and slippery in some areas. 
 

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我說的拉樹幹這算比較進階版的.
Sometimes we just had to grab on to the roots of the trees to make sure we don\'t fall.
 

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到了山中的算是溪谷的地方. 上面的霧氣和濕氣其實滿重的, 所以許多照片都是有點霧霧白白的.
In a kind of valley in the mountains. It was actually quite humid there with not too much sunlight and the fog hovering over the mountaintop. So the photos taken there all appeared to be a bit foggy.
 

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快到天池前的一段, 真的要用 "爬" 上去的, 而且真的需要拉繩子喔.
We literally had to "climb" the mountain. This one shown here is actually almost vertical and definitely need some help from the ropes.
 

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終於到了大天池, 在物理看著這些形狀怪異的木頭, 還真是覺得滿妙的.
Finally arrived at the Heaven Lake. The strange tree trunks by the lake in the fog just look so supernatural...
 

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這個像是古代跳舞的舞者.
This one looks like a traditional Chinese dancer.
 

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霧中還是可以看到許多訪客.
There were still many people around the lake when we first got there.
 

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湖邊的樹根特寫
Portrait of a tree by the lake.
 

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還有青蛙!
& a frog as well. Actually there were many there.
 

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這是達悟族人的"Du wa wa" , 也就是 "高山之海" 或是 "鬼魂出沒之處".
The lake used to be a crater and was eroded by rain. The Dawu Tribal people here called it the Du Wa Wa, which can mean the ocean in the mountains or the place where ghosts come out.
 

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我們待到人都走光了, 整個湖就像我們的啦!
We waited until the other visitors were gone & we had the lake all to ourselves.
 

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霧終於散了, 可以看到天池的全景. 
The Heaven Lake breaking through the fog and mists.
 

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下山的路也十分的不好走, 所以當我們終於又回到了這木階的路真是開心啊!
The way down was quite difficult as well so when we finally reached the wooden stairs, we were so happy (especially me!) 
 

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很蔚藍的海.
The big blue ocean!
 

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沿海的冷泉!
The cold spring along the coast.
 

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冷泉的水應該是淡水.
It\'s suppose to be fresh water in these ponds.

 

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岸邊一旁的礁石和洞穴.
Caves by the rocky coastal area.


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Fresh water vs. ocean water.
 

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蘭嶼沿海有一些類似這樣的發呆亭, 有些是私人的, 但有些是當地鄉公所蓋的, 在天氣好的時候, 在這邊就感覺還滿舒服的.
There are lots of these small pavilions along the coast. Some belong to the tribal people but some are public. On a sunny day, you can sit here to relax. Some people would even nap here!
 

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去海邊的冷泉完, 我們就上岸在發呆亭裡發呆囉.
The pavilion by the ocean.

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太陽要下山了.
The sun is setting.
 

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所以我們要速速感到我們要看夕陽的地方.
So we had to rush to the place where we planned to see the sunset.
 

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這是這次我唯一有看到丁字褲的地方. 所以就別追問了. (笑)
A statue of the traditional Dawu tribal man in their festival dress and a large flying fish.
 

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往青青草原的路上也可看到小蘭嶼.
We could see the small Orchid Island off the coast on our way to the grassland (called the Green Green Grass field).
 

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在青青草原上, 持續前進中.
On the Green Green Grass (grassland). On our way to the edge.
 

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青青草原的步道, 真是人性許多, 不過得看地上是否有羊的糞便.
The path, much more humane I think. But have to look out for sheep/goat poo.

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崖邊的景.
View of the coastal area.

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旁邊就是懸崖了.
Sharp cliff but awesome view.
 

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這就是青青草原.
The grassland.
 

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下面平台的地方有許多羊, 但是風有點大, 那路程又有點遠, 所以我們就遠眺就 ok 了.
You\'d see goats on the lower grassland area in the photo. But the wind was kinda strong so we didn\'t want to venture over there.


這邊其他的夕陽照:
So here are more of the sunset shots:

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快到最後的一篇了!
Almost reaching the last post of our Orchid Island adventure!


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This Trip Related Posts:
1
. [ Orchid Island ]  Above the Clouds in a 19 Seater  //  [ 蘭嶼 ]  19 人座的天空
2. [ Orchid Island ]  To the Lighthouse  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 風雨中的機車環島
3. [ Orchid Island ]  Caves and Rocky Landscape  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 上山下海的奇岩怪石 
4. [ Orchid Island ]  Dining on the Island  //  [ 蘭嶼  ] 食在蘭嶼
5. [ Orchid Island ]  A Difficult Route to the Other Worldly  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 翠綠和一身污泥的渺渺寧靜
6. [ Orchid Island ]  The Traditional House and the Flying Fish Festival  //  [ 蘭嶼 ] 飛魚季與地下屋